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Different to other techniques for this sidely ball it is not so important when to have the contact(early or late-both is possible here).

You have to go a little bit forwards and a little bit sidely at the same time to get the effect.It is also important to have the ball some time on your bat.Do not let it out directly only with a short contact.

More I cannot say now from the distance.Everybody has a little bit different technique and needs other tips to reach the goal and make it.

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Thank you for that! I will practice this on my ball machine, against some short pushes with some backspin... I'm not sure if it will be as effective with my rubber (Phoenix1.0mm) as with OX, but at least the sponge make it easier to keep the ball onto the bat for longer...

After reading all your advice and tips, I must say I'm very tempted to go back to OX, and work on a close to the table style more...

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I guess he brush sideway just to guide the ball to Nicole's BH side. Another reason is that you can hit the ball a little harder this way.

Am I right, SeppesTT?

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Hello Seppestt,

I wanted to ask you, what kind of pimple would you suggest for a beginner or for someone who wants to play this type of style, close to table.

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@haggis:

I do not think that it is neccessary to go back on ox, I think you will have some other advantages with your 1,0mm rubber.
Maybe the middle- way would be a 0,6 sponge under your rubber.
My experience showed, that with these everything is possible in a good way. Maybe I myself will try in the summer.Till now I only played ox because I played ox before.With frictionless long pips you had much more spin reversal.Because of that so many players played ox.Now many players keeped it only because they played before.

@bogeyhuter:

there are some advantages to play the ball sidely:
you can play much more aggressive as you said, you can play the ball wide into the edges.
Many matches have shown that the opponents will have much more problmes with this ball that with a straight ball.

@metal monkey:

there are two theories on that which depend on the player and what he wants to do.If he played no pimples before I would every time ive him a 0,6mm pimple.If he played before he will know on hisself which thickness he wants to have.

the first opportunity:

give to him a pimple which has the most control like at the moment TT-Master Inside;so he will get used to that and then he can change to something more aggressive

the second opportunity:

give to him a a pimple which is aggressive or middle aggressive;if it is too fast for him it should be no reason to change the first time.So he will get used to it and if he goes a little bit down with speed after some time this will be nice for him then.
Pimples to start with could be Palio CK 531 A or AmSir Flutter for example

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Have you ever tried the Tibhar Grass D.Tecs? I was wondering if you had any impressions on those pips.

The Grass D Tecs is a very dangerous pimple for the opponent but it is not easy to play. Close to the table playing with Superblock etc w9ould not be an option. The Grass DTecs is good for players who have a kind of long defence technique not far away from the table.
It is very effective but not good for the typical "frictionless LPs game"close to the table.

It is a pity you can not have the "eierlegende Wollmilchsau"(this is the german word for a fantasy animal which can give eggs, milk, meat and wool the same time )

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Hi Sebastian: yes I have found D.techs (OX) to be really dangerous.

I played it on the Re-impact Medusa (which I bought from you), the problem I had was the control. What blade would you recommend for this long pip. Also I am not clear what you mean by 'long defence'.

I could not swipe (sidespin) with this rubber.
I could block and chop block close to the table.
I could do limited attacks and these were very dangerous when they would work.

Suggestions on how to make this pip work would be great as I wouldn't mind switching to it but the development time is too long without assistance.

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Actually I think that I understand what you mean and will give this a try. The rubber is pretty fast and you need to be a metre from the table to account for this. By 'long defence' I assume you mean chop.

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Frictionless strokes | Attacking pip strokes | Greggy's advice | Bollsbrother | Sebastian Sauer . . . . . .

I think he means mid range chopping, two or three steps back from the table letting the ball get down just a little after the highest point of rebound.

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Actually I owned one, it was called Super Block, but the ITTF decided that legends should become myths so my poor eierlegende Wollmilchsau was banned.

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@both of you:
Yes, you are right.I mean a chop around one metre behind the table.It could be a little bit nearer or farer away.

@mathias:
please tell me your main problems,so I can help you in a better way.

Regards
Sebastian

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Thanks Sebastian. The main problem I found was there was an overall lack of control on many strokes. You can feel the low control. I use the word "control" and consistency interchangably here.

* Blocking against loops close to the table wasn't that effective (but very consistent).
* It was lethal blocking/ punch blocking against backspin (very consistent indeed)
* allowed attacks that were very difficult to return (medium to low consistency)
* away from the table chops (low consistency)
* I could not sidespin or "swipe" (zero consistency) also known as "sidely technique"

Part of this is that it is the first time I've played with the rubber, but I have played with a lot of pips both frictionless and soft. Perhaps I should just keep trying and learn to adapt to it, perhaps introduce a small amount of sponge to stabilize the pip, or perhaps there is a blade offering more consistency.

The Medusa offers very good control using the inverted rubber - very good control indeed.

I am buying the sponged version of D.techs to see how this performs. D.techs is an extremely good pip however so if I can get sufficient consistency for it to work I'd like to stick with it.



Oh Speedplay sorry to hear this ouch!!! I had a (non-tt) dislocated knee cap. Make sure you KEEP UP THE PHYSIO otherwise you'll have reoccurance for years to come (like me).

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Tibhar Grass D.techs OX | Donic BigSlam 2.0mm .
Re-Impact Medusa (balsa / 1-ply cherry wood)
Frictionless strokes | Attacking pip strokes | Greggy's advice | Bollsbrother | Sebastian Sauer . . . . . .

Perhaps the first step is to start moving Tibhar Grass D.techs between different blades and seeing how the "control feel" changes.

The Medusa is a modern defenders blade so it should be perfect for the situation described by Sebastian.

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Tibhar Grass D.techs OX | Donic BigSlam 2.0mm .
Re-Impact Medusa (balsa / 1-ply cherry wood)
Frictionless strokes | Attacking pip strokes | Greggy's advice | Bollsbrother | Sebastian Sauer . . . . . .

Sebastian,

Thanks to all these ITTF bans, we have to keep switching pips.

When you switch to a new model of long pips, how much time does it take for:

1. testing and evaluating it
2. getting really comfortable when playing with it