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 Post subject: Leopard
PostPosted: 22 Dec 2008, 23:08 
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Ok, got the Leopard today in 2mm. It is a fastish fairly bouncey spinny pip. Blocks and attacks against top spin have a weird curve and cause folk problems. They can't block them and an open bat push gives you an easy kill. It is spinny enough to serve with, not great spin, but enough to cause problems if you can hide the spin. Looks promising, but won't know until I've had some more time with it. But I'm glad I went with this one rather than solja's Daimant as i think it would be a bit too much of an adjustment for me. Other plus is no booster, so I'm 100% legal...

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PostPosted: 31 Dec 2008, 21:13 
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well I've had my first real hit with Leopard - at a Christmas social event. No training, just the warm up to get used to it.

It is a very spinny pip, longish pips. I can still do very spinny serves. It is fast enough for me on the cayman. The strokes weren't immediately natural to me, but things improved as the night went on. Attacking against chop is easy, a vertical 'top spin' kind of stroke and the ball goes back low and fast. Either that or an open blade hit.

The thing I liked most was that for the first time I felt that the LP bh strokes were integrated into the fh technique. With everything pivoting around the elbow, I could keep things tighter. Certainly something to work on.

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PostPosted: 02 Jan 2009, 21:22 
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Hope folk don't mind me talking to myself, but I'm kinda intrigued by the sp phenomenon...

one ting I can't get over is how less tired I am after training and how much an anticlimax attacks are. I think this is due to the less effort needed in attacking strokes - as all the energy is going into moving the ball forward and no effort is needed to generate spin (apart from wristy flicks over the table), the strokes are more compact, and less energy is used. I'm focussed more on the ball as well. Still need time to make this successful in terms of winning games, but I can see that the logic of shortpip/longpip could work

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 03 Jan 2009, 00:57 
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In his own play, Dr. Neubauer always preferred Leopard over his other short pip rubbers (he uses 1.5 sponge). Coach McAfee also has good results with Leopard (in 2.0). In fact, McAfee uses the same rubber combination you do, only on a Gergely blade.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 04 Jan 2009, 04:23 
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well I'm quite chuckling with glee everytime I play with this. I'm playing very badly, not got the touch at all, also not had a real trainign session on it, just games in holiday opens, but for the first time I sense I've got something I could build an efficient style around. I'm starting to keep the arm in the L shape and attack with the fh and block with the bh with something like an economy of movement. Graceful I will never be, but I played a game today against someone in a higher division, (got beat 8-11, 10-12, 8-11) but there were moments when I felt things working.

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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 12 Jan 2014, 00:25 
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i find it weird when people refer to this as a "spinny pip"! its one of the most ungrippy sp i have seen and hardly reacts to spin at all..it however doesnt have a low trajectory, quite on the contrary, maybe people are mistaking that with spin..already the pip surface reveals that its quite ungrippy..

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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 14 Mar 2014, 01:59 
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after playing a month with a sheet of leopard i have to notice that the grip wears off..not as extreme as the pistol, but similar...this leads to less control (blocks also seem to have a higher thrust), the only advantage being that the sheet becomes even less sensitive to spin.

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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 14 Mar 2014, 02:29 
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You going to stay with it or change it?

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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 14 Mar 2014, 02:32 
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staying with it, but changing the sheet as soon as i notice a significant difference = approx 1 month

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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 15 Mar 2014, 15:04 
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AA wrote:
after playing a month with a sheet of leopard i have to notice that the grip wears off..not as extreme as the pistol, but similar...this leads to less control (blocks also seem to have a higher thrust), the only advantage being that the sheet becomes even less sensitive to spin.
How often are you cleaning the pips?


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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 15 Mar 2014, 18:30 
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clean them as in with a brush? i never ever did that in my life :oops: just when i see dirt or something in between the pips i remove it with my fingers

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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 15 Mar 2014, 19:17 
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I wash mine with water after every session. I can get 4 months out of a sheet of 651 playing 4 times a week. when 651 loses grip the ball dives

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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 15 Mar 2014, 20:20 
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wash it? :o i am sure that changes (even if not significantly) the sheets properties, especially in the friction area

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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 15 Mar 2014, 22:09 
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You can clean pips with cleaning alcohol or bio ethanol and a nail brush.

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 Post subject: Re: Leopard
PostPosted: 16 Mar 2014, 05:58 
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well, when I say 'wash', I mean I spray a very small amount of water on it with a plant atomiser to get the white crap from the ball off as well as the sweat I've dripped on it!

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